ESM Dornier DO 335
Jimmy, my Man...
Believe me, the fire was lit with Jim flew his...and now my butt is burning like a lava rock... As for my mod; it's just a minute deal dealing with tail colwing; can't tell you but you will love it for sure [img][/img]
I think I will go with twin 30's or a 30 and a 20 like you just stated.
Mr DJ
My spies say your thinking of something more creative than 30s and 20s....Hmmmmmm
Your brother from the other coast...jim
Hey TA152,
Finally another Do 335 erstflug. Congrats! The sound was deafening...was it that loud in person?
What was the final weight?
Was that full speed in the video? My electric looked a little quicker...
I've landed mine on grass a few times and it was a joy. Unfortunately my main field is hard turf and only 450 feet long. I put on a set of Sierra brakes...they work great.
Welcome to the club,
jim
Jimmy, my Man...
Believe me, the fire was lit with Jim flew his...and now my butt is burning like a lava rock... As for my mod; it's just a minute deal dealing with tail colwing; can't tell you but you will love it for sure [img][/img]
I think I will go with twin 30's or a 30 and a 20 like you just stated.
Mr DJ
My spies say your thinking of something more creative than 30s and 20s....Hmmmmmm
Your brother from the other coast...jim
Ok, you got me; more like 55s and 30s
Your Brother...Mr DJ
The next step is to find some spinners and try some different props. The noise from the rear propeller is very high.
I will order a scalecockpit and make geardoors this winter.
The plane weights 15kg dry with some 2kg of lead in the nose
5,5" Mainwheels looks ok on this model.
Jim:
The takeoff was at full throttle, but in the lowpasses I only used half stick. Have used the smallest engines possible to hide them the best I can.
Here is a german ESM Do335
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=MBiqgT2QPBI
Thanks for all your kind comments
The next step is to find some spinners and try some different props. The noise from the rear propeller is very high.
I will order a scalecockpit and make geardoors this winter.
The plane weights 15kg dry with some 2kg of lead in the nose
5,5'' Mainwheels looks ok on this model.
Jim:
The takeoff was at full throttle, but in the lowpasses I only used half stick. Have used the smallest engines possible to hide them the best I can.
Here is a german ESM Do335
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=MBiqgT2QPBI
Your final weight is almost the same as mine...without my 20s lipos.
My rear prop is also noisy. Its the nature of the pusher prop beating the air. I used a Xoar 20-10 on front and back.
Ty makes a nice cockpit kit.
jim
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Ktsr7rcnaVM
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=dVMsRuLhADE
Also, whats the point of getting a twin and only putting one engine on it? I think that's what makes the Dornier such a cool plane to fly and a challenge to built.
jim
Here’s my thoughts (although Jim hit the computer before I did), it makes absolutely no sense to me to have a special bird such as this mother and use only one freakin’ engine. Hell, you may as well fly a regular freakin’ war bird or other everyday Yak, Cessna, P-51, etc. Yeah, yeah, I know “it’s your bird and you’ll build it however you like.” I totally understand and agree, but still, this puppy is Xtra Special.
<o></o>
As soon as mine is done, I’ll post it, but will send a special sneak peek to a few.
<o></o>
Mr DJ
Here’s my thoughts (although Jim hit the computer before I did), it makes absolutely no sense to me to have a special bird such as this mother and use only one freakin’ engine. Hell, you may as well fly a regular freakin’ war bird or other everyday Yak, Cessna, P-51, etc. Yeah, yeah, I know “it’s your bird and you’ll build it however you like.†I totally understand and agree, but still, this puppy is Xtra Special.
<o> </o>
As soon as mine is done, I’ll post it, but will send a special sneak peek to a few.
<o> </o>
Mr DJ
Funny, I thought you were a one-prop kinda guy.
I will say this, it made his plane ten pounds lighter than mine.[]
Brother from Another Coast,
jim
Here’s my thoughts (although Jim hit the computer before I did), it makes absolutely no sense to me to have a special bird such as this mother and use only one freakin’ engine. Hell, you may as well fly a regular freakin’ war bird or other everyday Yak, Cessna, P-51, etc. Yeah, yeah, I know “it’s your bird and you’ll build it however you like.” I totally understand and agree, but still, this puppy is Xtra Special.
<o></o>
As soon as mine is done, I’ll post it, but will send a special sneak peek to a few.
<o></o>
Mr DJ
Funny, I thought you were a one-prop kinda guy.
I will say this, it made his plane ten pounds lighter than mine.[]
Brother from Another Coast,
jim
Yeah, I guess I like a single every now and then; think I'll throw a DA 85 on mine
Mr DJ
Here are some pics of my mod for the lipo hatch and strut.
The four lipos (20s total) sit standing up in front of the canopy.
Then, I needed to lengthen the trailing link so the strut would fit in the wheel well. I bought the coupling at Home Depot and cut it down to fit in trailing link. The hex shaped coupling made it easier to attach. I used epoxy putty to attach it higher on the strut. The epoxy is a dark gray when dry so I painted it with some silver. You would never know.
I also bought the very nice Sierra brakes and hooked them into the down elevator on my transmitter. Works great.
The final pictures are my inner stuffings.
jim
Can you give me a summary of your weathering techniques? Your Pfeil looks great!
[/quote]
Thank you for noticing. First of all, I'm a beginner. I studied some airbrush techniques in model magazines at the hobby shop. My real inspiration was this P-38 at the Smithsonian in DC. I stared at that plane for an hour one afternoon. I knew any weathering I tried after that day would be a dissapointment, but it gave me some ideas of how a plane looked after a few months in battle.
Panel Lines: Don't just take dark pencil and draw your lines out. Tried several types of pencils but found a white very thin pen worked best. Tip #1, don't make solid lines. Light touch with plenty of breaks in the line for a more realistic look. I then lightly airbrushed all the panel lines with charcol...less is more.
Rivets: Simulated on the fuselage using a very thin silver tip felt pen.
Paint chipping: Silver paint and a small brush. Tip #2, dip brush, then take a paper towel and clean off the brush. There will be a very little paint left on brush. This is called "dry brushing". Very lightly brush to create chipping or wearing. I focused a lot on anything showing an edge.
Exhaust stacks: These were bought from a model company in the UK and are made out of resin. (not exactly the right ones, but close enough for me) I painted with a brush using four different colors and a paper towel to blend. From 6 inches away they look like rusted metal. This one took some practice.
I used my airbrush and some off-white paint to create the exhaust stains along with some darker paint strokes. Again, less is more.
UnderPlane panel lines: Pencil and a wet finger to blend.
Finally: I airbrushed the whole plane with a very very light charcol paint to simulate general grime. Less is more. Tip #3, I then took 0000 steel wool and wiped down every inch of the plane to give is a dull look.
All the weathering took a day or two...I was looking for something I could do quickly.
Did I say....less is more?
jim
...but found a white very thin pen worked best.
So you used a white pen? Like a paint pen or a colored pencil? Thanks for your details!
Remember...very very light touch with lots of line breaks...nothing is solid...less is more. Its almost impressionistic. Let the mind fill in the rest. You can experiment with going over the white lines with a light charcol pencil as well to break up the white and make it fade a bit. The P-38 picture is your inspiration. I will say this...converting my plane to electric made this a lot easier. No fuel proofing. Months later, I'm still adding...experimenting. Like painting on a canvas.
jim
I found a pen at the art store called a Gelly Roll Medium White. Sort of a ball point pen. Very sharp edge. It comes in a fine line as well. I would get both. I used a metal ruler and a Gelly Roll to draw the panel lines on the wing. For the fuselage I just ran the pen down the panel lines.
Remember...very very light touch with lots of line breaks...nothing is solid...less is more. Its almost impressionistic. Let the mind fill in the rest. You can experiment with going over the white lines with a light charcol pencil as well to break up the white and make it fade a bit. The P-38 picture is your inspiration. I will say this...converting my plane to electric made this a lot easier. No fuel proofing. Months later, I'm still adding...experimenting. Like painting on a canvas.
jim
Airburshing and charcoaling will make this thing look awesome!
This message is for fokewulf37, Mr DJ, jimkron, TA152, and anyone else who has used Sierra retracts for their ESM DO-335 and has flown it.
I just received my Sierra retracts for my ESM DO-335. Wow - what gorgeous works of art they are! Worth the price. I test flew my "Pfeil" last summer with fixed gear, and now I am finishing everything up right. What I need to know is this:
Should I beef up the structure of the airplane where the nose and/or main gear units go. I realize I will have to do some cutting to make the Sierras fit, but should I also make the wood/fiberglass/etc stronger in those areas. Did anyone have any structural failures on a hard landing?
Thanks for your help.
Brian (BCRC)
Jim will be able to respond with authority... He also posted photos of his cut and pasting of the gear as well as Ty. Mine not flown yet, hopefully by Mar/Apr 2012. Stay Tuned...
Mr DJ