smcharg

My Feedback: (1)

Hey Sheldon,

Yes, I'll definitely pay attention to that but I'm not worried. If you do the same thing, just make sure you don't tighten the lock nut too much where you'd start binding the servo any. I know you're a great builder so I'm just preaching to the choir here but just make sure you have threads on the backside of the nut. Also, I've done a little research and tests and I would not use Loctite on these either. I've found that Loctite will sometimes eat the nylon/plastic bits in the lock nut.

Dave Wilshere

Either way the pin/screw needs grease. That will stop the wear.
I’ve been using the pin clevis and C clip type for years and I’ve never lost a clip. I do consider which side I have the clip and try and protect it with the horn etc. Also I have had C clips I’ve discarded from new because they did not ‘click’ in position as I would like.
Lastly the black clips are a little harder material than the silver ones.

AEROSHELDON

My Feedback: (99)

Dave,

if you don't see any issue with a bolt I think I will go that way too and grease/oil it.

Dave Wilshere

Grease. Oil won’t work as well.
As long as the bolt is a good fit no problem using that as a 100% secure set up. I did it on something a long time back using a Miniature Aircraft USA shanked screw they had made for their washout unit (I can’t remember why I didn’t use the pin supplied on that one)

Dave

rbxbear44

My Feedback: (86)

I like the pins but did not like the C Clips so much, since they seem too soft. I was thinking to do the same thing: replace the pins with 3mm screws, washers and lock nuts. But, putting the "black C Clips" on, I would feel better about the setup, long term. If I have C Clips in my shop that fit, I'll go that route. If not, will change them out. Your posts have confirmed my concerns and thoughts as I finished up wings and tail.

Thanks gentlemen!

AEROSHELDON

My Feedback: (99)

did you guys have to widen the nose retract cutout? "If" I can get it perfect on the top to mark holes, there is not even enough room to allow the strut to turn. Really having a bit of a time lining this thing up to drill the holes. This might be a two person job....

smcharg

My Feedback: (1)

Sheldon,

No sir. It was a great fit, albeit tight, with the ER50 nose gear but it didn't require any rework. Hardest part for me was getting the bolts and lock nuts in there. I didn't attempt the blind nuts because the blind nut would have had to be ground down to clear the retract properly.

AEROSHELDON

My Feedback: (99)

Thanks Scott.... maybe mine was just a smaller openeing for some reason.... I'll see if I can get some pics of other nose gear from the bottom. Here is mine but hard to tell from this distance.

rbxbear44

My Feedback: (86)

Yes, I did. About an 1/8" on each side and probably added 3/8" of length toward the strut. I prefer some room and it doesn't create any problems.

And I did go with the provided Blind Nuts. They had just a hair of overhang past the plates and just ground them to flush with a Dremell.

Rb

AEROSHELDON

My Feedback: (99)

Like I said I can dremel this out..... but you can see full left and right. I was merely wondering if anyone else's was this tight. Thanks rbxbear that you had to do the same.




Centered

Full left turn

Full right turn

Dansy

My Feedback: (53)

Verify that your strut is 90 to the fuse, on a pro I build the whole gear mount for the nose was on a slight angle….I end up shimming the retract

AEROSHELDON

My Feedback: (99)

Thanks... it is mainly that the slot is not nearly wide enough to allow much turning. I will have it fixed tomorrow with a dremel

rbxbear44

My Feedback: (86)

When I began to work on the nose gear, there was zero room for error on the gear to retract. Actually the strut didn’t really clear each side. The laser was a good tool again for this exercise, as the formers do tend to not be perfectly set, which can create an illusion issue.

Skunkwrks

I have to crave out some fibreglass on my Viper to get clearance for the strut.
If the opening for the gear is tight use the Dremel to cut a couple of mm on each side for those ER50 gear.

AEROSHELDON

My Feedback: (99)

All fixed and tidied up.

AEROSHELDON

My Feedback: (99)

Where is everyone measuring the control throws? Seems like "maybe" the aileron and elevator is the outboard tip, and the rudder is the bottom at the fuse?

smcharg

My Feedback: (1)

For me, that's correct. IMHO, you should always measure from the most effective point on any control surface. If you set up the CG 10-20mm aft of the spar tube, put in about 30-40% Expo on your elevator. You can tweak it from there.

rbxbear44

My Feedback: (86)

Anyone using the rudder pushrod cover? If so, what are you using to attach it? BTW, I ended up using the black E Clips in medium size to replace the ones that came with the pushrod hardware...nice and tight!

smcharg

My Feedback: (1)

You can use "Amazing Goop". I used "Goop Max". It makes it easy to take off and put on if you need to. Currently, I have mine off to get a little more throw. Silicone also works

rbxbear44

My Feedback: (86)

Thanks, yea that's what I have and was going to go with. I have always roughed up the surface a bit when using that product though. Concerned it won't adhere unless I do that. Debating on putting it on or not. I'm pretty much done, just CG and battery placements.

smcharg

My Feedback: (1)

I didn't rough mine up and it was fine (although I didn't have very many flights with it on). Maybe leave it off until you get her trimmed out and flying exactly like you want. I like a lot of rudder throw, especially for the F sequence of F3S since I don't have thrust vector. That cover just doesn't work well needing a lot of throw.

CG - I have mine at 20mm behind the wing spar at present. With the recommended throw, you have a lot of elevator so set up a D/R for a little less and stick in some expo (like 40%). Ailerons aren't bad at full throw. Be prepared to keep the power in it with full flaps. She basically stops in the air. I was flying 7-7:30 minutes and still had a little over 1/3 tank using the 5L supplied tank. I think a great place to start is probably 10-15mm aft of the spar tube. You can watch the first two flights if you haven't seen them already on YouTube.

rbxbear44

My Feedback: (86)

This is pretty much the same bird as my Rebel Pro. I'd fly and fly and fly, and land with 1/3 of a tank of fuel. Flaps at 60 degrees puzzle me but have them set up that way. Talk about dirty...that's plain filthy!

Thanks.

rbxbear44

My Feedback: (86)

BTW, forgot to post this fine jewel of a tool for those looooooong reach items, like these aileron servos...this made that exercise a no brainer.

Lowe's carries this tool.

AEROSHELDON

My Feedback: (99)

Yeah i did the same too, was very easy. I got mine on Amazon .....

AEROSHELDON

My Feedback: (99)

rbxbear44 what laser are you using? I need to get one at some point, looks nice.