TF Beechcraft Bonanza F33A Build
#428
#430
Thread Starter
I know better than to work in my workshop when I'm dead dog tired, so I just thought I would post a few pictures instead...
Servo in tray. Let's see if one, it's easily removable and two, if the rear servo screws are accessible...
Plenty of clearance to get in and out.
Able to get my Allen wrench on the rear servo screws. Note, my Allen wrench doesn't have the ball end which would make it even easier.
I'd say the small improvements made the difference that I was looking for.
Servo in tray. Let's see if one, it's easily removable and two, if the rear servo screws are accessible...
Plenty of clearance to get in and out.
Able to get my Allen wrench on the rear servo screws. Note, my Allen wrench doesn't have the ball end which would make it even easier.
I'd say the small improvements made the difference that I was looking for.
Last edited by VincentJ; 11-13-2019 at 01:18 AM.
#432
Thread Starter
Seven 3/16" x 3/16" forward bottom stringers were cut and glued into place making sure former F2 stayed plumb.
Once dried, two 1/8" thick balsa forward fuse doublers were coerced into place. These were rock hard and required them to be wetted with warm water along with a bit of massaging (as well as clamps) for them to take on the curved shape of the fuselage...In the end, they both submitted.
Last edited by VincentJ; 11-16-2019 at 04:56 AM.
#433
My Feedback: (3)
I am amazed looking at all those wooden structures. Just how many years did it take the author(s) of the kit to gather the data, design and create the plans, the plotting of holes, the cutting out of each piece, and the re-dos? Surely, I missed some process steps in between. I can imagine a lot of wood was sacrificed to arrive at the finished version. I don't know this kit's history, but would you happen to know if the plans were hand-drawn or computer-drawn? Your pictures show a great deal of precision went into the kit. Such as the exact hole location for the pushrods.
Your project looks great on the build table. Glad to see that before gluing anything you think out its result. If anyone needed a step by step in building the Bonanza, you provide it well.
Your project looks great on the build table. Glad to see that before gluing anything you think out its result. If anyone needed a step by step in building the Bonanza, you provide it well.
#435
Thread Starter
Thank you! I don't believe that I mentioned this previously, but before I took on this project with my dear friend Bob, I had been looking for a Bonanza kit for quite some time. They don't come up for sale too often, but I remember I did find one on E-Bay. I contacted the seller and had offered him more money than we spent on this one. The seller was insulted with my offer and said that he wouldn't let it go, then went on to tell me that I probably wouldn't be able to build this kit because of the skill level needed. Needless to say I was annoyed with his comment...
I am trying to document this build in such a way that it will help others that want to try their hand at building their own Bonanza. Yes, it's not a beginners kit, but it is definitely doable if you have a few kits under your belt. I hope that the pictures as well as the narratives will make it a bit easier for others considering building.
I am trying to document this build in such a way that it will help others that want to try their hand at building their own Bonanza. Yes, it's not a beginners kit, but it is definitely doable if you have a few kits under your belt. I hope that the pictures as well as the narratives will make it a bit easier for others considering building.
Last edited by VincentJ; 11-16-2019 at 12:01 PM.
#436
Thread Starter
I am amazed looking at all those wooden structures. Just how many years did it take the author(s) of the kit to gather the data, design and create the plans, the plotting of holes, the cutting out of each piece, and the re-dos? Surely, I missed some process steps in between. I can imagine a lot of wood was sacrificed to arrive at the finished version. I don't know this kit's history, but would you happen to know if the plans were hand-drawn or computer-drawn? Your pictures show a great deal of precision went into the kit. Such as the exact hole location for the pushrods.
Your project looks great on the build table. Glad to see that before gluing anything you think out its result. If anyone needed a step by step in building the Bonanza, you provide it well.
Your project looks great on the build table. Glad to see that before gluing anything you think out its result. If anyone needed a step by step in building the Bonanza, you provide it well.
Last edited by VincentJ; 11-16-2019 at 12:48 PM.
#437
Thread Starter
With the stringers and forward fuse doublers installed, it's now time to sheet the fuselage sides. The fuse side sheets are
3/32" x 3" x 48".
It is absolutely imperative that the top and bottom edge of each sheet is straight and square. I have previously shown the method that I use to accomplish this...
Even though the sheet is 48" long is was about 3" short. A small piece will be added.
I could have used another set of hands, what with spreading the glue, getting the sheet in place and clamped before the glue set was a daunting task. Having a plan beforehand and doing a "dry run" without glue is key to making sure you don't run into any surprises.
Last edited by VincentJ; 11-16-2019 at 11:47 AM.
#438
Thread Starter
OK, I couldn't resist taking the fuselage over to the wing and see how the initial fit would be.
With a little sanding, I'll get the fit between the wing and fuselage even tighter.
OK, back to work! I'm ready to finish the sheeting. I thought I would show you what the unprepared edge of the sheeting looks like. The gap is huge! If your butting up your sheeting without tuning up the edges, that's probably why you're not happy with the fit between sheets.
After a few passes, here's what it should look like. Much better!
Builders Tip: Now that the edges of the sheeting are jointed, you still have one more thing to do before you start spreading the glue. On the inside edge that will be butted up to the next sheet, sand a small bevel. The reason for doing this is to give clearance to the very small bead of glue that squeezed out and dried on the other sheet. This bevel will allow the two sheets to more closely butt up to one another.
You have to look pretty close to see the minor bevel...
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Tequesta (01-26-2020)
#440
Thread Starter
This assembly is made up from a 1/8" balsa aft upper former (F11A), two 1/8" plywood straight tail saddles and forward former F10A, which will hold the horizontal stabilizer in place.
Former F10A is held in proper alignment with the aide of a steel block and clamp.
I made sure that the block was perfectly square to the other former's centerlines. If the steel block is square, then I can glue and clamp former F10A against the steel block with confidence.
The horizontal stabilizer is sitting in its cradle, but its trailing edge must be flush with the rear of former F11A. To get the TE aligned will necessitate that the front of the leading edge be sanded down.
If you look carefully, you will see that I sanded the front of the LE which will allow the stabilizer to move forward.
The trailing edge is now in alignment and centered with F11A as shown.
Last edited by VincentJ; 11-18-2019 at 04:12 AM.
#441
Thread Starter
Time to join the two halves of the elevators with a elevator joiner wire and horn. A 9/64" hole was drilled to accept the wire, then a groove was made so the wire could sit flush in the LE of the elevator.
Later when epoxied in place, the wire will be reinforced with a strip of fiberglass.
With the two halves joined, I will need to cut out F11A to give access for the horn on the elevator joiner wire. I've marked the area.
I will need to further enlarge this opening later as the rudder torque rod will also exit in this area. The stabilizer's trailing edge will also need to be notched allowing the horn to pivot freely.
Last edited by VincentJ; 11-18-2019 at 01:11 AM.
#446
Thread Starter
It occurred to me that I never included a picture of the elevator joiner wire and horn. It has been glass beaded then sprayed with a coat of primer. I was glad to see that the horn was brazed onto the joiner wire and not soldered for maximum strength.
To the keen eye, you may detect that one of the 90 degree bends is a tad bit off preventing the joiner wire from sitting flat on the table.
I bent it that way. Since the joiner wire holes drilled into each elevator halves were hand drilled, they are bound to be slightly off, resulting in both elevator halves not being in perfect alignment. In other words, one half will be slightly deflecting either upward or downward from the other. By tweaking one side of the wire you will be able to get the elevator halves in perfect alignment. This has to be done before the joiner wire is epoxied into place. If you tried to do it after, I'm sure the joiner wire would crack the balsa.
The joiner wire is now epoxied into place.
Last edited by VincentJ; 11-20-2019 at 03:34 AM.
#447
My Feedback: (29)
Very nice Vincent. I'm glad you included the story that someone had underestimated your building skills without even knowing you. Sadly this seems to be the norm these days. You will however get a good chuckle when done with this beautiful build the same as I did when finished with my pattern airplane design. Rest assured you are getting great support here. I for one have always loved the Bonanza, the lines are simply timeless.